Put this under too cool to not share. This is a real Corvette C6 doing donuts and burnouts all while being controlled by a regular 2.4ghz transmitter found with todays RC vehicles. If you want to have a closer look Continue Reading
Here is the next chapter in my Team Associated RC8.2e FT build. My confidence was high after completing Bags A, B and C with little issue, so it was on to Bag D, the Front Bulkhead Assembly. Immediately on the first step my progress came to a halt and my confidence was deflated a little. Getting the CV Boot over the Center CVA Bone turned on to be an adventure that had me looking to my husband for help after 15 minutes with no progress. He placed a little black grease over the pin and gently worked the boot over the pin pushing it with his thumb nail. Everything else in Bag D went together smoothly and I was flying high again until I realized I installed a piece incorrectly. Continue Reading
My Team Associated SC10.2 FT build is moving right along. This bag didn’t provide any challenges, but it did provide a couple of talking points. 1) Getting the Front Hinge Pin Brace in place on the chassis, took a little muscle to get it to seal properly. 2) The Front Body Post has 4 holes in it, the 4 holes allows you to adjust your body height. The holes are drilled on an angle, so make sure to get the angle matched to the Body Mount, or the screws will not be able to go thru the Body Mount and Body Post. 3) The Ball Cups are not threaded. If you tap them before you try to install the turnbuckles, it will make this process easier.
I have been involved in the hobby for about 4 years but for the most part I have just been interested in driving RCs. For me, that was the fun part. Working on vehicles was just not something that interested me much, nor did I think it was something I would be able to learn to do well. It just seemed complicated and too much work. Other than painting a few bodies for my vehicles, I have relied on my husband for any type of maintenance or builds so I haven’t gotten to know much firsthand about what is really involved with the inner workings of an RC vehicle. Continue Reading
This is the first part of my Team Associated SCt10.2 Ft build. I don’t expect any problems a long the way, this vehicle is a proven winner on the track and an old favorite for many racers. Bag A was no real problem to complete. The instructions are easy to understand. Read them in there entirety. My big mistake here was over tightening the Steering Bolts, when the manual clearly states “Do not over tighten steering bolts. Make sure there is free movement in the steering rack.”
After completion of Bag A, a couple of things come to mind. 1) Will the plastic chassis hold up to punishment I take and dole out on the track?
Over the next few days, I will be doing a build of an old favourite, the Team Associated SC10.2 FT kit and my wife will be doing her first ever build, a Team Associated RC8.2e FT kit. My wife has been casually involved in the hobby for the last 4 years, but because of the new local track, she is able to get out more. She has very little repair experience and has always driven a RTR vehicle. After she tried my RC8.2e FT, she immediately wanted one. I explained how she would be building the 1/8 scale buggy from scratch and to my surprise, instead of being asked, convinced, pressured or forced into building if for her, she said OK. I then decided to pick up a SC10.2 FT and do a build myself, simply because I got a little excited about the possibility of building hers, until she crushed my excitement by deciding to complete the build on her own.
“Haha, Good luck with All of That”.
This is going to be interesting, she certainly decided to jump right into the deep end. Stay tuned.
The RhinoForce S2 is the RC Short Course Truck Self Righting System, I posted my Initial Impressions the other day. Last night, I took some time to sit down and do the assembly of the RhinoForce S2. This will be a smooth process, If You Read the Directions Carefully and follow the diagrams. I will break down the steps in the assembly process based on the included instructions, which are also available to download from Torsional Concepts-Instructions. I will add my comments underneath each one in Italic.
The following tools will make full assembly easier:
Phillips Head Screwdriver(2), 1/4″, Nut Driver 7/16″ or Socket, Pliers, Flathead Screwdriver. Continue Reading
The build is done and it was a lot of fun. I got to modify and/or fabricate a few parts. I painted with an airbrush for the first time. Most important, it gave me a few hours of escape from all of the snow outside. In this final part I discuss the Motor and ESC I installed, there is a quick recap of the parts I modified, a complete parts list for this project and a very quick video of the “da Buggy’s” first run in an empty parking lot on a very cold winter day. Continue Reading
Ok, not quite complete, I will explain later.
I am not even sure I will use the sway bars, but I figured since I was making a mess, I would cut the Traxxas Wheelie Bar so that I could mount the sway bat kit. The front goes on with no problem, attaching to the A-Arms and the Traxxas Chassis in the stock locations. The Rear Sway Bars will attach to the A-Arms, but I did need to create a spot to mount it on the Rear Diff Housing, which is why the Wheelie Bar got cut up.
Up next was the body and this provided a whole new set of challenges for me. I had always painted my bodies with a spray can, so when the Pactra line of spray paints was halted, I was one of the many in search of a new option. I wondered into my LHS and after getting some guidance to verify the internet research I did the night before, I decided to make the jump to using a airbrush. I will say this about using the airbrush, it is like making the change from Nimh batteries to Lipo batteries, you will wonder why you didn’t do it sooner. I’ll will talk more about my Airbrush experience in a future post. Continue Reading
My Kyosho MP7.5 Project is complete. I am very happy the way this turned out.
Here are the details. The car was purchased with a Top Cad conversion kit, now I didn’t like where the battery was mounted on the kit so I moved the tray forward to allow the esc to be mounted at the back, also mounted the tray direct to the chassis to make it low as possible, this is more the standard setup on modern buggies.
Second I purchased a FTW Night Fox Kyosho MP9 Body, Blue medium springs and Kyosho conversion receiver box kit, and Mylaps Transponder form http://www.amainhobbies.com.
I trimmed the side guards to fit the new body and also trimmed the body and painted it. After that, I think the body fit perfect and I can get my 4s hard case lipo in there without jacking up the body. Note I used a couple of rubber O rings to secure the body under the clips because there seemed to be a little too much play between the body and the clips for my taste.
Everything got a good clean and lube, the diffs rebuilt, camber and toe all set, as well as the ride height. The end result is what you see in the photos bellow.
I started Part 3 by making the Front Bumper. To do that I used a Traxxas 1/10 Rally Front Skidplate Part# TRA7437, which will allow me to bolt the bumper directly to the frontend. I also used a Traxxas Rustler Front Bumper Part# TRA2735, for the bumper. As you can see in the pics, I cut up the Rally Skidplate, so I could match it up with the Bumper. The two pieces were then held together with two 4mm x 10mm CCS Screws and two 4mm nuts. I was pleasantly surprised at how nice the two pieces came together. Continue Reading
I need to finish off the back end and lock in the hinge pins. I ended up using the Traxxas Wheelie Bar Mount/Rear Skidplate Set. Part# TRA6777. I actually only used the skid plate piece, you could probably cut the skid plate off of the stock bumper and use it instead, but I wanted a clean look . I am going to save the Wheelie Bar Mount for later, I plan on cutting off the Sway Bar mounting points and using them on this buggy, so I will have the option to use sway bars in the future. Continue Reading
This year my winter project is converting a Traxxas Slash 4×4 into a LCG Slash 4×4 Buggy. This is nothing new and has been done many times before under various names such as BackSlash or Pro8 Conversion. I had an extra Slash 4×4 which wasn’t being used, so I figured this project would be ideal. I like this project because it will require me to fabricate some of my own parts. I could have bought the newly released STRC Conversion Kit and bolted everything together, but I like a challenge and spending that money on a kit would have taken all the fun away from me. You have already seen part of the build in the posts M.I.P. Traxxas Slash 4×4 17mm Hex Adapter Kit and M.I.P. Race Duty CVD’s Slash 4×4: Initial Impressions. Now on to the next part of the build, the Wing.
I started with the back end, because I was excited to see the wing in place. I removed the stock Rear Bumper and Bulkhead and installed a Traxxas Rally Rear Bulkhead (Part# TRA7429). I decided to look to Losi for a wing and came up with a Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 Wing (Part# TLR240001) and a Losi Wing Mount (Part# LOSA4435). The Wing Mount has four mounting points and the bottom of the mount can actually be bolted through to the stock Diff housing, using longer bolts (18mm). In order to properly secure the top mounting points of the Wing Mount to the Shock Tower, I needed to make my first part. Continue Reading
Well I finally got the last part made for the RD Logics SHO, it was the top plate for the center diff, keep in mind you can mount the entire center diff mount and top plate from the Mugen MBX6, it will fit, but I decided to make my own.The material for the plate is some HDPE plastic which is very durable and light and then with the help from a friend of mine with a mill we made the plate.
I then was looking at the buggy body and decided to do a little more, so I trimmed out the windows and added some decals to finish it off. Now all I need is to put the motor and esc back in and wait till the snow and freezing rain stops so I can finally test.
Thanks for reading and let me know what you think in the comment tab.